A global trend that has also found its way into the Indonesian fashion scene in the past year is capsule collection, where two creative and/or retail forces join heads in creating a limited edition collection for a particular season, and pop-up store, where a limited time retail space is created for a particular label(s). Both, undeniably, create extra buzz that has proven to pick up sales and increase margins.
The management of Senayan City mall, the venue for Jakarta Fashion Weeks for the past few years, has happily banked on the trend and this year tapped KLE, Danjyo Hiyoji, Huntingfields, and a TIKPrive-Stella Rissa collaboration for a show of capsule collections to be sold exclusively in the mall’s pop-up store.
While KLE earned another round of big applause from the audience, me included, for the catchy graffiti-like, rain-inspired print on well-cut laidback pieces that just screamed high-street label, it was Danjyo Hiyoji’s collection, especially on the menswear pieces, that stole my heart. The colorblocks, the layers, the shapes, the attitude—energized urban streetwear to the tee. Me likey likey.
Dinira by Dini Pratiwi is another label that also managed to chicly breathe cosmopolitan into her collection, without losing traces her initial inspiration of traditional Dayak motifs. The aesthetics slightly reminded me of the works of Japanese RTW labels.
The onslaught of stylish RTW continued as L’Oreal Professionel brought a handful of accomplished labels to create a collection based on what I surmised as L’Oreal dye colors. ArdistiaNewYork injected more fluidity into its signature structured style, managed to circumvent the predictability trap, yet I wish the designer would’ve used a lighter palette, a warmer mauve accent, that would make the collection look less severe.
Summer-y hair dye colors were what Billy Tjong stirred and later artfully splashed as lively prints on such a lighthearted collection that made you forgive its runway styling with those chunky, white, dated platforms.
The jewel, however, was another smashing collection from Sofie. He stole my attention on the Indonesia Fashion Week earlier this year with his, as I put it then, unapologetically urbane geometrics. This time Sofie masterfully married geometrics with double-draped shoulders, straightforward zippers and buttoned up tops to make the wearers looked like they only perpetually lived in the toniest zipcodes of world’s capitals. His chosen palette was subdued, but they’re meshed so well that when the models moved the garments almost looked like they bounced off the runway. Definitely half of us Fashion Council were bouncing off our front row seats, clapping and hollering, as Sofie took his finale bow. What a show!
Last but not least, the tribute show by Danar Hadi to Chossy Latu’s 30-year successful career was another feast to the eye. Both Danar Hadi and Chossy Latu have well-defined, longstanding clientele– most of whom filled the Fashion Tent, so ‘safe’ is du rigueur. It doesn’t mean it has to be boring, and it wasn’t. Chossy Latu sent flowing, wearer-friendly, fine ensembles down the runway that no doubt would be a sold-out collection among the attending clientele alone. My little moment of joy was the fact that the whole 2 days before Chossy styled his models with colorful turbans I already wore one, with the quintessential feather brooch nevertheless, to JFW. Ha.
Tomorrow… the Closing! As usual, for snapshots, videos, or impromptu commentaries, feel free to peruse @lyndaibrahim (Twitter) or @lyndaibr (IG).Tweet